Johor Bahru and Endless Food

It's taken me a really long time to realise why Singaporeans are so in love with Johor Bahru, the Malaysian city just a skip away from Singapore, but since Veronica suggested we go there on an afternoon whim I've been obsessed.

There's so much to do in Johor Bahru. And everything's so much more affordable than in Singapore - Singapore numbers but in Malaysian ringgit instead of Singapore dollars. It's perfect for budget people (like me!) and the crazy amount of food that Malaysia stuffs itself with is more than perfect for foodie Singaporeans.

And the best part is that JB is as cheap as $1.90 from Singapore, via a bus from Newton; or $5 via the KTM train service. There's lots of other ways to get to JB too. I was lucky that the immigration gods were kind to me and I was in and out of immigration in under 5 minutes!

Veronica took me to The Replacement, where I was introduced to my first taste of churros with a salted egg (!!!) dip and also a very indulgent chocolate ganache dip. The Replacement is veritably tailored-for-Instagram, with picture-perfect minimalist settings and artfully placed copies of Kinfolk ready for picture props.

There's so much in Malaysia that's different, yet the same as Singapore. Jalan Tan Hiok Nee reminds me somewhat of Haji Lane, with the graffiti on the walls, but you won't get pillars painted with old-school Milo tins and Milkmaid cans in Singapore. It's like everything has so much more life, so much more natural and organic and beautifully chaotic - so unlike our clean everyday Singapore.

But some things don't change, whichever side of the Causeway you're on. Here we are at the Faculty of Caffeine, which looks like it could be right at home in any Singaporean setting - beautiful industrial chic, good coffee and a fun place to hang out only a few minutes walk from the border.

Veronica introduced me to what she thinks is (and I agree) the best prawn aglio olio ever at Maco Vintage. Huge juicy portions of prawn and a spiced garlic oil toss in al dente spaghetti. If that read like a Ramsay Gordon-esque food description, it's because this was worth it, and at only RM18 - that's SGD6, everyone. It's a kept secret that deserves some airtime.

So. Good.

Jalan Tan Hiok Nee knows how to make an impression. Quiet, peaceful and yet unicorn-level colourful, Veronica and I spent an evening sitting at the window of the second-floor converted shophouse café, Bev C, watching the rain pour down onto rainbow-coloured pavements.