Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Romance in Verona



"For never was a story of more woe
Than this of Juliet and her Romeo."
-- Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet

Both in the daytime and at night, Verona is beautiful and exquisite. It didn't take me long to fall in love with its architecture and the colours.

First up - get a load of the hostel we were staying at!



After how dark and dreary Milan was, coming to this in Verona - sunshine yellow walls and clear blue skies with sunlight streaming in through the windows - this was such a welcome sight, so cozy and so warm! It was definitely one of the nicer and friendlier hostels we stayed at on this trip.

I love how these windows look almost Moroccan!




I love these orange walls and turquoise shutters! Don't they look so pretty all weathered?


The Verona Arena, a colosseum like the famous one in Rome, used to be used as a place for gladiator fights. To this day it remains in use as a popular venue for holding large-scale events, such as concerts; in a place as small as Verona, there aren't that many options for space!

I believe those are the Alps that you see in the distance :)






No trip to Verona would be complete without taking a look into Casa di Giulietta, or Juliet's House. Although of course fictional, the idea of Romeo and Juliet permeates the whole city, and it's no surprise that there has been a boom around the supposed places where they lived and died. There's even a Juliet's tomb - and while to be honest it's not very much, it's worth going to take a look just to say that you've been there.

The entrance to Juliet's house is a courtyard with wads of unsanitary used chewing gum stuck on the walls.
I can't say health and safety would be pleased...
The crowds rushing to take photos with a bronze statue of Juliet.
If you're ever in Italy, I absolutely insist that you try the delicious frittelle, which is a dough fitter that's usually covered in sugar or Nutella spread. It's a great street food, cooked on-the-spot and tastes amazing!



With the nearby Venice being many times more famous, it's not uncommon for people to forget about Verona. It's a pity that it's so often forgotten about, because it's so different from other common, tourist spots. But if you're looking for an exquisite place with lots of charm, not too quiet but not too touristy, then Verona hits the spot.

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Encountering trouble



What do you do when you meet people who try to scam you when you're travelling?

Scammers can spot a tourist from miles away. No matter how experienced you are, they will always know - the telltale way you dress different, the accent, the fumbling with machines and look of unfamiliarity in your eyes when you're in a new city.

When I was in Milan, I encountered scammers not once but twice. The first time, it was a bunch of people who were trying to give us 'free' wristbands; the second, we were buying tickets at a Metro machine when two guys tried to make us use our credit card instead of cash, and failing that tried to snatch our change.

The first time was alright. I had an elbow pressing the opening of my bag, which was zipped, in towards me - and they were obviously scammers, but they weren't invading our personal space or anything at least. I made sure that everyone around me was standing at least a metre away. I checked my bag afterwards and nothing was missing, thank goodness.

The second time was far worse. Buying tickets at a Metro station, someone was signalling that one of the machines was out of order, so I went to a different machine thinking he was one of the station people.

It wasn't until we had started putting change in to buy our tickets with that these guys started being aggressive - they kept gesturing and signalling to us to use our credit cards instead of cash, and even started pressing buttons on the machine to make the transaction terminate. For those unaware, banks in Europe issue cards with a chip system; debit and credit cards both require a PIN for a transaction to be approved, rather than simply signing for it.

If not for the fact that we'd already started putting money in, I would have switched to a different machine entirely. Obviously, these scammers wanted to steal our card and the PIN of those cards.

I also really wanted to kick them in the nuts, but I don't think that would have been a good idea in an area where it was likely that more of them were nearby. I didn't want to get into more trouble than trouble was worth.

Failing that we obviously didn't let these scammers anywhere near our cards, the machine dispensed our tickets and these guys tried telling us the transaction was over (they started waving their hands wildly and used their hands to block the plastic flap where the machine dispenses stuff at the bottom) before we'd got our change. Clearly, they wanted us to go so they could get the change. I had to be extremely quick about getting the change so that I'd get it before they did.

Of course the moment I was in the safety of the train I checked my bag. Nothing was missing, thank goodness.

On one hand, I don't know how obvious it could possibly be that these guys were scammers. I mean, if you're trying to rob burgle or steal, I would have thought it would have been done stealthily at least. But on the other hand, once I had calmed down from how angry I was, I started wondering what on earth might have happened that people would have been forced to such desperate measures.

Not about the card, I mean. Sometimes people just steal cards because they're an easy way to get quick cash. I mean about the change. The machine was only due to give us a few cents worth of change back from what we'd put in  - is a few cents worth of change really worth all that hassle and troubling?

Or was it the case that they were just a bunch of idiots who liked seeing people get frustrated and were trying to harass us for the sake of harassing us?

Scammers can make or break your trip - they can completely put a dent in your entire mood, and that can ruin everything. Not to mention, the hassle of losing your wallet and having to call up a thousand different companies and bureaucracies to let them know that your cards and ID have been stolen - that's trouble if I ever saw some.

I'm trying to figure out the difference between what makes a person a beggar and what makes a person a scammer. Both are in need of money. Neither pay particularly well, especially if you're a scammer at a machine scraping for change. But one is the source of clearly more harassment than the other. It's easy to say that if you remain 'good' you'll become a beggar rather than a scammer because you'll never want to cheat others out of their money.

I'm starting to think things aren't quite as simple as all that, though.

More on my thoughts to come.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Lago di Como



Lake Como and the surrounding town area are a peaceful, tranquil area about an hour north of Milan. In the summer, the area would be filled with greenery and clear blue skies, and it might be easier then to see why Lake Como has been called one of the most beautiful in Italy.

It has long been home to a variety of cultural and artistic gems, and numerous villas that are open in the summer, unfortunately closed for the winter. It is also popular with celebrity homes for the likes of Madonna, George Clooney and Sylvester Stallone.

(I did try stalking the celebs. It failed pretty miserably.)



Built on the shores of the lake, the town of Como has a very personal charm that distinguishes itself from the rest of Italy. The houses are clean, small and quaint, the people chirpy. It is, the words of Belle from Beauty and the Beast, a "small provincial town."





It helps that I finally had my first taste of Italian gelato in this small little town, too. Strawberry and pistachio gelato, for those of you who are wondering - and boy oh boy dessert has never tasted this good. Apart from maybe sticky toffee pudding.



With plenty of parks and outdoor spaces, I'm sure Lago di Como would have been a beautiful place to visit in the summer. This was winter - cold, drab, grey and overcast with cloud, but past all that it's easy to see how it might be an idyllic setting for some.

Opposite sides of the lake have developed very differently - one side full of buildings and townspeople, the other quietly residential. It is so small that the town could easily be explored on foot on a day trip, or to take a boat upstream to the town of Bellagio.



Lago di Como acquires a different sort of charm in the winter, but if you really want to get out and about seeing things, it would be best to come back in summer when the villas are open and it's warm enough for flowers. Either way, it's a pretty little area that's well worth seeing.

Sunday, January 20, 2013

Teatro della Scala



For a music geek, visiting the La Scala in Milan is a dream come true. The only thing better than this would have been to be able to see a performance at La Scala, but given that the only things that were playing then were ballets, I reckon visiting the Museo Teatrale della Scala was a decent enough compromise.

I apologise in advance for the really poor image quality - photos weren't allowed inside so I couldn't whip out my Canon 550D, and I had to make do with my iPhone to sneak a few!

Franz Liszt's real piano.

I was standing so close to Franz Liszt's piano! To think that such a great composer once played on this instrument, it's incredible - I'm starstruck. And not only that; Giuseppe Verdi's piano was there too!

Giuseppe Verdi's piano.

The second floor of the museum contains a small section on the ballets that have taken place at La Scala - while La Scala is better known as a performance venue for operas than ballets, nonetheless there have been some pretty spectacular ballets that have been performed here. Nureyev, the great Russian dancer, once danced in these very halls.

Ballet costumes, I can't remember from which production. Look at the detail in design!

This is one helluva gorgeous tutu skirt.

A painting of Maria Callas, opera diva divine.

Maria Callas has to be one of the world's favourite sopranos ever to have lived: her performance of Casta Diva for Bellini's Norma was beyond compare, and her voice was so colourful and agile there was quite simply nothing like it.


Busts of Rossini and Beethoven.

Franz Liszt's piano, carefully placed beyond the reach of museum visitors.
One of the incredible things about Liszt's piano, I thought, was that it's still used even today as a playable instrument on special occasions! Whoever gets to play on that thing is ridiculously lucky.

Or probably just extremely well-trained and who has been playing piano 8 hours a day for the past 20 years. The amount of work that goes into performing well is something I don't think many people appreciate - you only ever see the final work, the polished finished product, but unless you go behind the scenes and see rehearsals a person will never understand how difficult it is to make it look easy.

An original La Scala poster for Verdi's Aida.

As far as I'm concerned, this was the best use of €6 that ever went into a museum! I don't suppose it will be of terrible interest to a person who isn't quite as into classical music, but for me this was the perfect way to spend a good morning.

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Milan in a nutshell



Milan, fashion powerhouse of Italy. Hell, fashion powerhouse of the world. Home to many of the greatest names in the scenes of art and fashion.

Also, a place I feel very conflicted about.

See, I loved Italy before I'd even ever stepped foot in it. I've always wanted to learn Italian - I know a wee bit of French now, but if I'd had the option to do language classes in Italian at my school I would have. I want to learn Italian more than French, a lot of the reason being that a lot of musical direction is written in Italian.

That, and you, know, pizza.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure I liked Milan much. Apart from my horrible New Year's experience, Milan I felt was overrated. Perhaps it's just because Milan isn't meant to be a city best enjoyed in winter, or because I was there over New Year's and nothing was open, really. I don't really know, but I don't think it's a place I would go back to again.

To its credit, Milan is stunningly beautiful. The architecture is old and glorious; the city breathes with a vibe that doesn't shy away from its pride of being such an important city. It's got the world's oldest shopping mall, the Galleria Vittorio de Emanuele II, which is beautiful and looks like something out of a dream. Stunning, high ceilings, high-end designer names.



So I don't know why I didn't like Milan as much as I should have. Perhaps it's because I wasn't used to the smokers, who were absolutely everywhere - literally, people lighting up around every corner. That's one thing I am sure I didn't like, because it made the air unbreathable.

I don't like smoking. I never have, and I doubt I ever will. I don't have a problem with smokers, as long as they keep their smoke out of my face. I don't like the smell of smoke and how it stays on your clothes. Which is why Milan was difficult, because it was impossible not to walk into clouds of smoke.

I will say this, though - the Duomo di Milano was one of the most beautiful buildings I've ever walked into. I've walked into a lot of churches by now (this is Europe, after all, and churches kinda represent the pinnacle of human ability with stunning art and architecture) and I'm still going to say the Duomo is pretty high up on my list of favourite churches.



The Duomo is an imposing building - it took over 500 years to build, and it's easy to see why. The carving is ornate, the stained glass intricate, and don't even get me started on the sheer size of this building. A pinnacle of Gothic architecture, the Duomo is the fifth-largest cathedral in the world (thank you Wikipedia) and contains the largest pipe organ in all of Italy.

It made me realise how wondrous human people are, and marvel at their ability to produce something of this magnitude. I was temporarily put into a Doctor-like state of wonder and respect for humankind :p



It's supposed to be a thing to walk up to the top of Duomo (or take a lift, if you so prefer) and take in the Milan panorama from there, but it was a cold wet and rainy day so I skipped it.

The Duomo is such a fascinating building - it's even got the sarcophagi of two archbishops on display, where people can buy and light candles and pray to them, with a third sarcophagus in the catacombs. It's fascinating in a mildly morbid way.



The Navigli District is like a mini-version of Venice - a beautiful canal and bridges that cross it. Illuminated by streetlamps after dark, it's the perfect place to grab the famous Milanese aperitivo - where you can pay for a drink for only €5-€9, and get a free buffet thrown in with the deal. It's the perfect way to fill up your belly on a budget, while enjoying a uniquely Milanese experience.



So I suppose while Milan wasn't everything I thought it would be, it had its high points.

Monday, January 14, 2013

The tropical person's guide to winter wear




"Winter is coming." - Game of Thrones

Make no mistake - Singapore to Scotland is a huge weather change. Going from 35 degree heat to sub-zero winter cold, I've had to pretty much buy an entirely new wardrobe to survive in this temperature. It's been a lot of trial and error, trying to figure out what works for me in this weather, and I think I've finally got it. So for you, I present, the tropical person's guide to winterwear.



One word: LAYERS.

Layers are what will get you through winter, not just as insulation against the cold but also making it much easier to adjust according to the different temperatures you'll come into contact with - for example, in shopping malls or cafes where there's likely to be an indoor heating system and it's probably much warmer inside than out. At least, I hope - I'd like to go indoors to escape the cold, not have more of it!

Depending on the level of cold, you'll want to wear more or fewer layers, and if necessary thermals. Thermals are made such that the material is able to trap more pockets of air as opposed to regular clothing, which makes it a better insulation layer. In temperatures of -10 degrees C and below, you'll definitely need thermals if you don't want to freeze (unless you're Finnish - see below).



The traditional system of layering consists of three main layers: base, mid and outer. The base layer serves to wick moisture such as sweat away from the body, keeping it dry and allowing air to insulate effectively. And yes, you do sweat even when its cold, even if you might not notice it all at first. The mid layer is the main insulating layer, and the outer layer is waterproof which protects against snow, sludge, or cold unwelcome rain.

Materials, materials, materials. You'll want to wear material which has been designed for that specific climate - which means you don't wear tropical plant cotton in elk climate. Wool is popular, because sheep are everywhere and it's a relatively inexpensive material.

The Inuits used to wear seal furs to keep themselves warm; I'm certainly not suggesting you go out and hunt seals to make your clothes with (in fact, I hope you don't) but you'll definitely want to wear appropriate materials.

You'll notice that when you're cold, your head and torso never feel cold, because these are the two areas your body prioritises distribution of warmth to. It's only after your head and torso have been adequately protected that your body warms the extremities of the body, your fingers and toes. It's absolutely essential that you keep your torso and head protected - even if you haven't got gloves for your fingers, it's amazing the difference a hat can make to how warm you feel.

Snow looks an awful lot different from rain, but remember that they're both forms of water, which means both can soak you to the skin. Remember to wear waterproof boots, or the snow you step in will soak into your shoes and socks. No canvas Converses - wear leather on your boots or waterproof everything!!!

And finally, you'll want a scarf to protect your neck and to prevent wind from blowing down your front, which can be very uncomfortable. Any good thick winter scarf should be alright for this.

There you have it! My tropical person's guide to winter wear. Remember that every climate and every person is different, so you may have to switch up your wear accordingly. Stay warm!

What are your tips for staying warm this winter?

Friday, January 11, 2013

Places: 2013 - part two

8. Cambodia



Angkor Wat, a world-famous UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest religious monument in the world, is Cambodia's prime attraction for visitors. It has been neglected since the 18th century but is still remarkably well-preserved. Like many South-East Asian cultures, traditional Cambodian culture is rich in history and a step out of the everyday world that is sure to awe-inspire.

9. Maldives



The Maldives, I dare venture, are the very definition of paradise. Indeed, when I was looking for images to show you it was hard to decide if the ones that came up on Google were real or not. (Google 'Maldives' - go on, try it.) This cluster of islands are some of the world's most susceptible to rising sea levels - meaning that in time to come they may well be entirely underwater. With pure white beaches and crystal clear waters, what's not to love about the Maldives? This is a destination for those looking for the perfect beach getaway.

10. Sri Lanka



Sri Lanka is an amazing country - in fact I just wrote a whole entry telling you why you should go. Sri Lanka is special to me, because it was here that I first discovered how much I truly loved travelling. It's a thousand different places in one island on the southern tip of India, with beaches, hills, culture, and everything you could want in a travel destination. It is not an exaggeration to say that Lanka was life changing for me - and if you decide to go, I hope it will be for you too.

11. Norway



Northern Norway is beautiful - located within the Arctic Circle, it is home to some of the most spectacular sights this Earth has to offer. In summer, you can experience the midnight sun, where the sky never gets truly dark but simply turns beautiful blazing shades of purple and pink on the horizon; in winter, the dark polar night are perfect conditions for spotting the aurora. South Norway is home to the world-famous Geirangerfjord and the Bergen Railway, one of the world's most spectacular rail journeys. There's really no reason you shouldn't be making your way to this amazing country.

12. Japan



Japan is a world of extremes - tradition meets technologically advanced metropolis. The LED-lit night streets of hustling and bustling Tokyo are a complete contrast to the gentle, traditional streets of Kyoto and its geishas and maikos, all set within the landscape of legendary Japanese hospitality. In the land of spring cherry blossoms, the country which gave us sushi and anime is an amazing place that everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime.

13. Egypt



Pharoahs, the Nile, the Pyramid of Giza and Sharm El-Sheikh are four of the top reasons why Egypt should be on your travel itinerary for this year. An out-of-this-world experience, Egypt is most well-known for desert sands and mummies of its ancient civilisation. Go riding on camel-back into the desert, have a Bedouin-style dinner, take a hot air balloon flight over the Valley of the Kings, or go snorkelling in the Red Sea waters off Sharm El-Sheikh.

14. Tunisia



Tunisia has long been the filming location of choice for many a Hollywood film; it boasts resorts to die for and is the real life inspiration behind Luke Skywalker's Tattooine. The Arab Spring risings of January 2011 have driven a great deal of tourism away from Tunisia, and although the situation is significantly calmer now travellers remain cautious in 2013. Half of Tunisian hotel beds remain empty, which means with every hotelier slashing prices to attract tourists there's never been a better time for the adventurous traveller to visit Tunisia.

Click here for part 1!

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

This week on the internet - 1/1/13 - 8/1/13

So as we all know, the internet is full of all sorts of hilarious and unexplainable things. It is a well-known fact that the internet is populated by cats, which is why I bring you this cutest of cute kittens.



I was on this blog, thetimeistudiedabroad.tumblr, and I came across this funny gif that I thought you would enjoy too.

WHEN I FIND A FLIGHT FOR 12 EURO


Someone did an operatic version of Gangnam Style. It's actually quite good.



The film version of Les Miserables has been out for a while now, and it's been receiving mixed reviews - most cinema-goers love it, critics seem to hate it. Travesty, I haven't seen it yet so I can't judge. As a result, I feel an awful lot like this guy.



Some things, like this, are too adorable to be not shared. What is this I can't even.



Send me more This Week On The Internet! Leave a comment below to the funniest internet things you've seen.

Saturday, January 5, 2013

Places: 2013 - part one



Some call it wanderlust, others call it itchy feet. Whatever your name for the irresistible desire to travel, I've got you covered for the places you should visit in 2013.

1. Iceland



Renowned for its spectacular natural beauty, Iceland has long been known as a photographer's paradise. Strangely, the island has a lack of trees, although this otherworldly landscape is enhanced by the numerous geysers, hot springs, and volcanoes that pepper it.

The homeland of bands Sigur Ros and Of Monsters and Men, Iceland has steadily been growing in prominence - Reykjavik is fast becoming the next filming location hotspot, and the Eyjafjallajökull volcano that halted European air travel in 2010 catapulted the small island into the international news. Although admittedly expensive, Iceland is a beautiful country to visit that is worth saving up for.

2. India



The charming and mystical lands of India capture the imagination, with rich spices in all colours, hot foods, saris and painted elephants. Once known for being a major area of British colonial rule, India is today known as one of the growing economic giants of the world as well as being a global center for technology and communications.

The Indian subcontinent is huge, so there's plenty to visit. Give yourself ample time to soak it all in.

3. Indonesia



Tropical paradise Bali is but one of the many islands that make up the chain of Indonesia. Although Bali known for white sandy beaches and warm sun, it is far from all that Indonesia has to offer; Mt Bromo in Surabaya is another popular destination, where people may climb (or ride) to the top of the volcano to catch a rapturous sunrise.

4. Croatia



I don't really know what my impression was of Croatia before this, but whatever it was it's certainly been changed after seeing this picture. Massive waterfalls and pristine, clear waters are a feature of this Mediterannean country. An up-and-coming travel destination, nautical tourism is a favourite, with coastal cities aplenty; a myriad of islands will cater to everyone's travel needs.

5. Morocco



A paradise for lovers of the bohemian lifestyle and fabrics dripping with oversaturated colour, Morocco lies just to the south of Spain and has long been popular for travel. It is Africa for those who are just getting their toes wet. From Morocco is it possible to visit the Sahara, and it is not uncommon to visit it on camel-back and even spend a night out in the desert.

Moroccan architecture is stunning, and filled with the deep russet of dust and the desert it is truly a must-visit destination.

6. Greece



Two places spring to mind when one mentions Greece: Athens and Santorini, and although these are the most popular these are not the only ones to visit. One may be told to visit Mykonos or Crete, but the white terrace houses of the Santorini coast are what have made Greece so popular. Athens is full of culture and rich with Greek history, and of course you'll want to visit the Acropolis while you're there. This is a Mediterranean paradise with so much to give you'll have to go back for more.

7. Thailand



Since the film The Beach was filmed here, Koh Phi Phi in Thailand has experienced an incredible surge in tourist traffic. Known for clear turquoise waters and sandy beaches, admittedly Thailand's most popular destinations are its Phuket and Krabi beaches - although Bangkok is also fabulous for shopaholics.

Cheap clothes are galore in the multilevel shopping centres, and it's possible to bargain the price of many items down from even cheaper than they were originally priced at. This Buddhist-majority country also has many beautiful Buddhist temples to visit (dress appropriately) so there's something for everyone.


Part 2 coming up!

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